I know I said I was going to Singapore. But you must understand that nothing in Indonesia goes as planned. Literally, nothing. I’ve yet to have anything go specifically as planned. So really, I’ve just given up planning and switched to outlining. At any rate, I didn’t go to Singapore. I’m waiting until Monday to complete my paperwork now here on Bali. So I ended up with 4 extra days to kill.
For about 3 seconds I thought I was going to stay in the same home stay in the same town for the next 4 days. Then I realized how stupid that would be when I have an entire island to explore and the opportunity to do so was being shoved in my face.
So I did what you’re supposed to do on your last night in town……that’s right, I went to the traditional market and ate some gado-gado (indonesian ‘salad’) and drank instant melon drank. Yes, I know how to party.
Early the next morning I woke, had a confusing, but delightful, Indonesian-Swedish breakfast and went to rent a scooter. Remember when I said nothing ever goes as planned? Right. Me renting a scooter ended up with me being at the police station with a stranger “acquiring” a paper stating that I lost my international driver’s license. Have you ever been to an Indonesian police station? If not, you’re not missing anything. The prisoners are charming though, you may want to go just to interact with them. The officers though….hmmmm, there is an uneasy feeling about them. Maybe it’s just that I’m a white girl at the police station with a stranger ‘acquiring’ an ‘i lost my license’ paper thing that made them weary of my presence?
Scooter now in hand, I was freed unto Bali. I started off by getting lost. That went fairly well. I considered it sightseeing. I had my scope set on a town called Medewi. I located it by searching for home stays in Bali and noticing that it was the only one in that town which was on the water. I like water, so it sounded like a good choice. Turns out, it was a great choice. An Austrian man built this home stay for surfers on a local families land. It was rainy season so I was the only one there. And it was amazing. Surrounded by rice fields and the ocean, a fantastic view of the sunset, and listening to the mosques in the distance, the place is idyllic.
The beaches in Medewi are fantastic and make me fear the ocean more than I already did. The waves there are huge and frightening.
I’d like to give you all some advice on traveling now. Please, whenever you have the chance; tresspass. ESPECIALLY if you are in a different country. ESPECIALLY if you speak the local language. You will have multiple outcomes.
1. They don’t want you there. You then pretend you can’t speak their language and carry on trespassing.
2. They mean mug you, you greet them in their language, they continue mean mugging you, you carry on trespassing.
3. You think they are mean mugging you, you greet them in their language, they genuinely smile and are thrilled to have you. You carry on trespassing.
4. It turns out you’re not trespassing, you’re just the only white person that ever thought of going to the local beach instead of the resort beach. And you win because it’s better.
Tired and soaked from the ocean I returned to the home stay to watch an amazing sunset from my 2nd floor deck with bats and glow bugs flying around my head and a refreshing breeze. Wow.
In the morning I had coffee with the family and headed out again for my next adventure. I had no end in mind, just points I wanted to hit on the way to wherever I ended up. I’m uncertain if I hit any of my points. Either way, I had an amazing time.
My highlights included:
- man driving scooter with goat carcass tied to back (impressive!)
- road kill in Indonesia is rats and snakes…lots of snakes
- randomly stopped for coffee. amazing people. showed me how they roast the coffee at their house. coffee was free. learn to speak local languages, I’m serious. you will always win.
- always follow directions locals give you, even if you think they are wrong.
- never follow directions locals give you, even if you think they are right.
- used a random bathroom and found goldfish in their mandi water. thought I was hallucinating. after re-looking about 5 times, confirmed, there were fish.
- made a child cry by simply being present. not the first time. not the last. my research states that asian babies and dogs are afraid of white people.
- Desa Belimbing. A gorgeous, lush village in the middle of nowhere. Go there. Stay there. Spend your money there. Take pictures there. Kind people. Beautiful place. Named after my favorite fruit (belimbing>start fruit).
It was getting late and I needed to decide where I was going. I decided Ubud. Everybody kept telling me it was far, but when you live on a small island, everything is far. I knew I could do it.
Then I tried and began doubting myself. I mean really, how many times can you get lost in one day? I lost count. More than can fit on my two hands.
After a lackluster welcoming to Ubud (another foreigner driving into me) I almost lost faith. Ubud looks exactly like Berkeley. People, stores, & all. I was scared. Then I found the home stay I wanted. It was up a shitty, steep hill, down a narrow sidewalk above a deep water ditch, in an alley. Just my style! Here a shirtless man greeted me and welcomed me into his secret garden. HOLY SHTI it’s amazing here! He led me to my $20 room that has views of rice fields and the sunset and it is completely hidden from street traffic or even adventurous wanderers. Why isn’t everybody staying here instead of paying $200 a night for a hotel??
Nirwa Ubud Homestay. Get here. Once again, I’ve met amazing people. Also, he told me how much others are paying for their rooms (more than me). Once again….speaking the local language, winning.
I departed Ubud early having decided there was nothing for me to do there on my limited budget. So I drove in a new direction. I had literally zero plans today. So I spent it driving for 8 hours just looking around noting places to further explore next time. I worked my way through mountains, jungle, coastal villages, cities, and markets. I had two more run ins with the police. Another westerner was going the same route as me and we kept catching up at all the road blocks and ridiculous things you must stop for in Indonesia. Each time I got the get out of jail free card while he fumbled with his english and had to pay hefty fines. I felt bad for him…just kidding. I felt happy for me for being prepared.
Today held lots of tasty local meals ala Bali and much Balinese coffee. Sorry Jogjakarta….I like Bali’s coffee better. It’s less acidic and I think they just know how to make it right.
I’ve settled for the night in a hidden village on the northern sea. It is time to sleep too much and get ready to do paperwork, fly home to Flores, pack and move to the village!
The time is almost here, beach living is mere days away….. are you ready to come visit yet?