I am lucky enough to get to explore a neighborhood in Bali named Sanur for a couple of days while I wait on some paperwork. It is the same neighborhood I stayed in on my journey from Yogyakarta to Flores, but I only had one night here on that occasion. Coming back to a town that you have a foothold in but still needs deep exploring is a comfortable and fun experience.
I enjoy recognizing people that don’t recognize me because too many people pass through. I also enjoy getting to discover all the small shops I missed or didn’t have time for before. Lastly, it's a good feeling to be able to navigate an airport instead of walking around in a daze not being completely aware of your surroundings.
My first time through I just spent time wherever was open. Unknowingly on that occasion I had arrived on a Balinese holiday. Who knew Bali has 19 official holidays, the states have half that. It might also be worth mentioning that in Indonesia, the new year is still being celebrated. Many shops and restaurants are closed because of it. Imagine how difficult it is to get things done……. My move in date to the beach was originally mid December. It is now breaching mid January and I still won’t be there until next week. All of this because, you guessed it, holidays.
Enough places are open though to have fun. Last night I was determined to find a burger. I trekked up and down the streets staring into bars full of european tourists getting blasted and listening to terrible cover bands. It was an unattractive sight after spending weeks with a remote village that doesn’t speak english and a month in a muslim ruled city where European tourists are a novelty. At long last I settled on the mostly empty, music free bar. You know its a good sign when the only customers are leathered old men drinking beer. Or at least I usually suspect that’s a good sign….. Fortunately my 6th sense did me well. I would venture to say it was the best burger I’ve ever had and almost didn’t order. They had one Indonesian item on the menu; Rendang. Which I love. I saw it and asked the bartender which was better, the rendang or the burger. To my bewilderment, he said the burger. I had to believe him. He grew up here and knows good rendang. He was right. If you’re ever in the neighborhood, ask me and I shall guide you to a spicy, moist, cucumber laden burger put together by a little, old, asian woman. The down side is that they don’t know what manhattans are : (
I have spent a large amount of effort avoiding the tourists and observing the locals. I like to see how local people live in tourist ruled towns as it’s obviously worlds different from those who don’t. I was surprised to see the the locals here aren’t jaded or spiteful but that they do, unsurprisingly, have their secret hangouts that go unseen by tourists unless you are looking for them. The Balinese people, I have decided, are extremely happy and spend a lot of their time making music with whatever ‘instrument’ (table, legs, etc) is in front of them. They also work very hard and nap like they deserve it (because they do). They eat deliciously healthy food. Which is great because there is no shortage of vegetables, unlike what seems to be the rest of the country.
This round I also found a charming homestay to reside in. I didn’t know what to expect as I booked it for a $13/night room and only assumed the worst. Upon arrival I found a sweet Balinese family in their pajamas letting me know when breakfast would be the next morning. I was dead tired and immediately passed out and slept through breakfast this morning. Oh well….tomorrow. But I did find that my upper level room has a balcony that I can conveniently catch the breeze and watch the sunset from. I also have an extremely clean room that’s bigger than some of the houses I’ve lived in. And have decided I will never be staying in a hotel again as long as I can help it. Once again, if you’re ever in the neighborhood, let me know and I will guide you to a quiet and comfortable place to rest your weary body at that is very close to everything.
My last rambling for the evening is about fruit. Did you know there are 3 kinds of dragon fruit or buah nanga? I sure didn’t. I was at the store and grabbed on of the shelf for later thinking it was your ‘everyday’ pink skinned, white fleshed fruit. To my surprise, as I peeled it open, it revealed a florescent pink color, much like a prickly pear. My dear friend suggested I not eat it as it might be the end of my days. But I had already made my way through half of it. Then I looked into it. In the end I won. If you ever have the chance to pick up a red dragon fruit, you have my full support. The texture is denture friendly and the flavor is not overpoweringly sweet and is extra juicy. The only downside is that it stained half my face and my hand florescent pink……..so maybe use utensils when you eat yours?
Upon first touchdown I was unsure of whether or not I liked Bali much. The more time I spend here, eating the food, walking the beach, meeting the people, and planning my trek through the rest of the island, I am reaching the conclusion that this place ain’t so bad as long as you avoid Kuta!
I have one two more nights of familiarizing myself with Sanur before I get to spend 12 hours in Singapore. I will be stuffing my face in Singapore as I hear the food there is exceptional and I’m getting a little weary of fried tempeh (which is why I needed a burger). Pictures to come! I left my camera cord at home but will have a photo album to share later on.
FUN FACTS
I enjoy recognizing people that don’t recognize me because too many people pass through. I also enjoy getting to discover all the small shops I missed or didn’t have time for before. Lastly, it's a good feeling to be able to navigate an airport instead of walking around in a daze not being completely aware of your surroundings.
My first time through I just spent time wherever was open. Unknowingly on that occasion I had arrived on a Balinese holiday. Who knew Bali has 19 official holidays, the states have half that. It might also be worth mentioning that in Indonesia, the new year is still being celebrated. Many shops and restaurants are closed because of it. Imagine how difficult it is to get things done……. My move in date to the beach was originally mid December. It is now breaching mid January and I still won’t be there until next week. All of this because, you guessed it, holidays.
Enough places are open though to have fun. Last night I was determined to find a burger. I trekked up and down the streets staring into bars full of european tourists getting blasted and listening to terrible cover bands. It was an unattractive sight after spending weeks with a remote village that doesn’t speak english and a month in a muslim ruled city where European tourists are a novelty. At long last I settled on the mostly empty, music free bar. You know its a good sign when the only customers are leathered old men drinking beer. Or at least I usually suspect that’s a good sign….. Fortunately my 6th sense did me well. I would venture to say it was the best burger I’ve ever had and almost didn’t order. They had one Indonesian item on the menu; Rendang. Which I love. I saw it and asked the bartender which was better, the rendang or the burger. To my bewilderment, he said the burger. I had to believe him. He grew up here and knows good rendang. He was right. If you’re ever in the neighborhood, ask me and I shall guide you to a spicy, moist, cucumber laden burger put together by a little, old, asian woman. The down side is that they don’t know what manhattans are : (
I have spent a large amount of effort avoiding the tourists and observing the locals. I like to see how local people live in tourist ruled towns as it’s obviously worlds different from those who don’t. I was surprised to see the the locals here aren’t jaded or spiteful but that they do, unsurprisingly, have their secret hangouts that go unseen by tourists unless you are looking for them. The Balinese people, I have decided, are extremely happy and spend a lot of their time making music with whatever ‘instrument’ (table, legs, etc) is in front of them. They also work very hard and nap like they deserve it (because they do). They eat deliciously healthy food. Which is great because there is no shortage of vegetables, unlike what seems to be the rest of the country.
This round I also found a charming homestay to reside in. I didn’t know what to expect as I booked it for a $13/night room and only assumed the worst. Upon arrival I found a sweet Balinese family in their pajamas letting me know when breakfast would be the next morning. I was dead tired and immediately passed out and slept through breakfast this morning. Oh well….tomorrow. But I did find that my upper level room has a balcony that I can conveniently catch the breeze and watch the sunset from. I also have an extremely clean room that’s bigger than some of the houses I’ve lived in. And have decided I will never be staying in a hotel again as long as I can help it. Once again, if you’re ever in the neighborhood, let me know and I will guide you to a quiet and comfortable place to rest your weary body at that is very close to everything.
My last rambling for the evening is about fruit. Did you know there are 3 kinds of dragon fruit or buah nanga? I sure didn’t. I was at the store and grabbed on of the shelf for later thinking it was your ‘everyday’ pink skinned, white fleshed fruit. To my surprise, as I peeled it open, it revealed a florescent pink color, much like a prickly pear. My dear friend suggested I not eat it as it might be the end of my days. But I had already made my way through half of it. Then I looked into it. In the end I won. If you ever have the chance to pick up a red dragon fruit, you have my full support. The texture is denture friendly and the flavor is not overpoweringly sweet and is extra juicy. The only downside is that it stained half my face and my hand florescent pink……..so maybe use utensils when you eat yours?
Upon first touchdown I was unsure of whether or not I liked Bali much. The more time I spend here, eating the food, walking the beach, meeting the people, and planning my trek through the rest of the island, I am reaching the conclusion that this place ain’t so bad as long as you avoid Kuta!
I have one two more nights of familiarizing myself with Sanur before I get to spend 12 hours in Singapore. I will be stuffing my face in Singapore as I hear the food there is exceptional and I’m getting a little weary of fried tempeh (which is why I needed a burger). Pictures to come! I left my camera cord at home but will have a photo album to share later on.
FUN FACTS
- Bahasa Indonesian is widely spoken in Singapore
- 80% of Bali’s economy depends on tourism
- humidity in Indonesia is always at a minimum of 70% to a maximum of 95%
- Bali has 2 volcanoes while Flores has up to 16
- Luwak Coffee is made in Indonesia and extremely affordable, who wants some?
- Too bad! No Luwak Coffee for you! It's no good. But this is cool.